Monstera Deliciosa Care Guide

Native to the rainforests of Central America, Monstera deliciosa has become one of the most beloved houseplants in the world. With its glossy, hole-punched leaves and vigorous climbing habit, it brings a true jungle feel indoors. Give it the right conditions and it will reward you with ever-larger, more dramatic foliage year after year.

Light Requirements

Monstera deliciosa thrives in bright, indirect light. In its natural habitat it climbs tree trunks beneath the forest canopy, so it is adapted to filtered sunshine rather than harsh direct rays. A spot a metre or two back from a south- or west-facing window, or directly beside an east-facing one, tends to suit it well.

Too little light is the most common reason for a sulky Monstera. In dim corners it will survive but produce small, undivided leaves on weak stems. A few hours of gentle morning sun are tolerated and often encouraged, but midday summer sun through glass can scorch the foliage, leaving pale or crispy patches.

Signs your light is wrong

• Too dark: small leaves, no new fenestrations, leggy stems reaching toward the window.
• Too bright: bleached yellow patches, brown crispy edges, leaves curling inward.

Watering

Monsteras like a consistent rhythm of soaking and partial drying. Water thoroughly when the top 3-4 cm of compost feels dry to the touch, letting excess drain freely from the bottom of the pot. In a warm, bright spot this might mean watering once a week; in cooler months it could stretch to every two or three weeks.

Avoid letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, as soggy roots quickly lead to root rot. Equally, do not let the rootball bone-dry repeatedly, or you will see drooping leaves and brown leaf edges. Tepid water is kinder than cold straight from the tap.

Humidity and Temperature

As a tropical species, Monstera deliciosa enjoys moderate to high humidity, ideally around 60% or above, though it adapts well to average household levels. If the air is very dry, leaf edges may brown and new leaves can emerge crumpled. Grouping plants together, standing the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or running a humidifier nearby all help.

Keep your plant in a warm room, comfortably between 18°C and 27°C. Avoid cold draughts, unheated porches in winter, and proximity to radiators that dry the air dramatically. Below about 13°C growth stalls and the plant becomes vulnerable to damage.

Soil and Potting

The ideal mix is rich but free-draining. A good blend is roughly equal parts general houseplant compost, orchid bark and perlite, with a handful of coco coir or worm castings for moisture retention and nutrients. The bark mimics the chunky, airy material Monsteras root into in the wild.

Repot every two to three years, or when roots circle the bottom of the pot and push through drainage holes. Choose a container only one size larger; an oversized pot holds excess moisture and slows growth. Always use a pot with drainage.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced liquid houseplant fertiliser at half strength every three to four weeks during spring and summer. Pause feeding in autumn and winter when growth naturally slows.

Support and Moss Poles

Monstera is a hemiepiphyte: it climbs. Without support, stems flop sideways and leaves stay relatively small. Giving the plant something to climb encourages the aerial roots to anchor, mature foliage to develop and fenestrations to become more pronounced.

A moss pole, coir pole or rough wooden plank all work well. Tie new growth gently to the support with soft plant ties until the aerial roots grab on themselves. Mist the pole occasionally to keep it slightly damp, which encourages roots to attach.

Why Leaves Fenestrate

Those iconic holes and splits, called fenestrations, are a hallmark of mature Monstera growth. Young plants produce solid, heart-shaped leaves; splits appear as the plant ages and conditions improve. The leading theories suggest fenestrations allow light to filter down to lower leaves and help large foliage withstand tropical wind and rain.

To encourage fenestration:

• Provide plenty of bright, indirect light.
• Give the plant something tall to climb.
• Keep watering, feeding and humidity consistent.
• Be patient — each new leaf tends to be more divided than the last.

Propagation

Monstera is wonderfully easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Take a cutting just below a node, making sure it includes at least one aerial root or root bump. Place it in a jar of water, changing the water weekly, and pot up into compost once the new roots are 5-8 cm long. Alternatively, root cuttings directly in damp sphagnum moss or a light potting mix.

Common Problems

Yellowing leaves

Usually caused by overwatering or compacted, waterlogged compost. Check the roots and adjust your watering routine. Occasional yellowing of the oldest leaf is normal.

Brown leaf tips and edges

Often a symptom of low humidity, underwatering or a build-up of mineral salts from tap water. Try filtered or rainwater and increase humidity.

No new fenestrations

The plant is likely too young, too dark or unsupported. Move it to brighter light and add a moss pole.

Pests

Watch for spider mites, mealybugs, scale and thrips, particularly in dry indoor air. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth, inspect the undersides, and treat infestations promptly with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Final Thoughts

Monstera deliciosa is a forgiving plant that rewards attention with truly spectacular foliage. Get the basics right — bright indirect light, a steady watering rhythm, a sturdy climbing support and warm, humid conditions — and your Swiss cheese plant will grow into one of the most striking features of your home.