Aloe Vera: Care and Practical Uses

Aloe vera is a forgiving succulent that thrives on a little neglect. Give it strong light, gritty soil and infrequent but thorough watering, and it will reward you with thick, gel-filled leaves and a steady supply of offsets. The most common mistakes are overwatering, low light and burying it in dense compost, all of which are easy to put right.

Light

Aloe vera wants as much bright light as you can give it. A south- or west-facing windowsill is ideal indoors, and an east-facing window will keep it healthy if a little slower. The leaves should sit firm, fat and a fresh greyish-green. Tell-tale signs of poor light are pale, floppy leaves that lean dramatically towards the window, long gaps between leaves and a plant that splays open rather than holding its rosette shape.

If you want to move it outside in summer, do so gradually. Aloes that have been kept indoors can scorch badly when suddenly exposed to direct outdoor sun. Acclimatise over a week or two, starting in a shaded spot and stepping up the light each day. Watch for bronzing or reddish tints on the leaves — a little colour is fine and indicates strong light, but deep red or papery patches mean it has gone too far.

Soil and Potting

The single biggest favour you can do an aloe is to plant it in fast-draining, gritty soil. A standard houseplant compost holds far too much water around the roots.

A simple mix

• Two parts cactus and succulent compost (or peat-free multipurpose)
• One part horticultural grit or coarse sand
• One part perlite or pumice

Use a pot with drainage holes — terracotta is excellent because it wicks moisture away from the rootball. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the rootball; aloes dislike sitting in a large volume of damp soil. Repot every two to three years, or when offsets have filled the pot and the plant becomes top-heavy.

Watering

Follow a strict soak-and-dry approach. Water thoroughly so it runs out of the drainage holes, then leave the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Check by pushing a finger an inch or two into the compost: if you feel any moisture, wait.

Rough seasonal rhythm

• Spring and summer: typically every 2–3 weeks, depending on warmth and light.
• Autumn and winter: roughly once a month, sometimes less if the plant is cool and dim.

Always tip away any water that collects in the saucer. Aloes hate wet feet more than they hate drought.

Reading the leaves

• Underwatered: leaves curl inwards, thin out, wrinkle along their length and may take on a dull, dusty appearance. A good soak usually plumps them back up within a few days.
• Overwatered: leaves turn soft, translucent, yellow or brown from the base upwards. The plant may become mushy at the crown — this is serious and often fatal if not caught early.

If you suspect rot, unpot the plant, cut away any soft brown tissue with a clean blade, let the wounds callus for a couple of days and repot into fresh dry mix.

Temperature and Humidity

Aloe vera is happy in normal room temperatures, somewhere between around 13°C and 27°C. Keep it away from cold draughts and unheated windowsills in winter, where the glass can become very cold at night. It does not need misting or any added humidity — average indoor air suits it perfectly.

Feeding

Aloes are light feeders. A diluted cactus or succulent fertiliser applied once a month during spring and summer is plenty. Do not feed in autumn or winter, and never feed a stressed, recently repotted or rotting plant.

Propagation from Pups

A healthy aloe will produce offsets, often called pups, around the base of the mother plant. These are the easiest way to make more aloes.

1. Wait until the pup has at least three or four leaves of its own and ideally some visible roots.
2. Unpot the mother plant and gently tease the pup away, or slice it free with a clean knife where it joins the parent.
3. Leave the cut surface to callus over in a dry, shaded spot for two to three days.
4. Pot into the same gritty mix and leave dry for about a week before the first light watering.

Leaf cuttings rarely succeed with aloe vera — stick to pups for reliable results.

Harvesting and Using the Gel

The clear gel inside the leaves is traditionally used to soothe minor skin irritations such as small burns, sunburn and dry patches. Only harvest from a mature, well-established plant with plenty of thick outer leaves.

1. Choose an outer leaf, the lowest and largest, and slice it cleanly at the base.
2. Stand the cut leaf upright for ten to fifteen minutes to drain the yellow latex (aloin), which can irritate skin and should not be ingested.
3. Lay the leaf flat, trim the spiny edges, then slice off the top skin to expose the gel.
4. Scoop the gel out with a spoon and use immediately, or store in a sealed container in the fridge for a few days.

Always patch-test on a small area of skin first, and avoid using gel from supermarket aloes that may have been treated. Do not consume homemade aloe preparations.

Common Problems at a Glance

• Soft, mushy base: overwatering or rot — unpot and inspect roots.
• Brown leaf tips: usually underwatering or sunburn after a sudden move.
• Leggy, pale plant: insufficient light — move closer to a bright window.
• Pests: mealybugs occasionally appear in leaf joints; dab with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol.

Final Thoughts

Aloe vera asks for very little: strong light, gritty soil, a deep drink only when bone dry, and a quiet winter. Get those right and you will have a sculptural, useful plant that produces pups for friends and gel for the occasional kitchen mishap for many years.