Philodendron Care Guide

Philodendrons have earned their reputation as nearly foolproof houseplants. With glossy foliage, a tolerant nature and an enormous range of leaf shapes, they suit beginners and collectors alike. Whether you have a humble heartleaf trailing from a shelf or a statuesque climbing variety scaling a moss pole, the basics of care are remarkably similar across the genus.

Trailing vs climbing types

Philodendrons fall broadly into two growth habits, and knowing which you have helps you give it the right support.

Trailing (vining) philodendrons

These produce long, flexible stems that cascade beautifully from hanging baskets or shelves. The classic example is the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum), along with cultivars like 'Brasil', 'Micans' with its velvety bronze leaves, and 'Lemon Lime' in vivid chartreuse. They can also be trained upward on a small trellis or moss pole, where leaves will gradually grow larger.

Climbing philodendrons

Climbers naturally want to ascend, sending out aerial roots that grip onto bark or moss poles in the wild. Popular climbers include Philodendron erubescens hybrids such as 'Pink Princess', 'Painted Lady' and 'White Knight', as well as larger species like Philodendron gloriosum (a creeper that grows along the soil surface) and Philodendron melanochrysum. Given proper support, these plants produce dramatically larger, more mature leaves over time.

Light requirements

Most philodendrons thrive in bright, indirect light. An east-facing window or a spot a metre or so back from a south or west-facing window is ideal. They will tolerate medium light, though growth slows and variegated cultivars may lose their patterning. Direct midday sun, particularly through glass, scorches the leaves, leaving pale or crispy patches.

If your plant is reaching with long gaps between leaves (etiolation) or new leaves are noticeably smaller, it's asking for more light. Variegated types such as 'Pink Princess' need especially bright indirect light to maintain their colour without burning.

Watering

Philodendrons prefer the top 2–3 cm of soil to dry between waterings. Push a finger into the compost; if it feels dry at that depth, water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. Overwatering is the most common cause of trouble, leading to yellowing leaves and root rot.

• Underwatered: drooping leaves, dry crisp edges, light pot when lifted.
• Overwatered: yellow lower leaves, mushy stems, a sour smell from the compost.

Water less often in winter, when growth slows and the compost stays wet for longer. Always use tepid water and a pot with drainage.

Humidity, temperature and soil

Average household humidity suits most heartleaf-type philodendrons, though velvet-leaved species like 'Micans' and melanochrysum appreciate a more humid spot — a bathroom, kitchen or a pebble tray will help. Keep them between roughly 18–27°C and away from cold draughts and radiators.

Use a chunky, well-draining mix. A blend of peat-free houseplant compost with added perlite, orchid bark and a little coco coir works well. This mimics the loose, airy debris philodendrons root into on the forest floor and around tree trunks.

Feeding and potting on

Feed monthly during spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertiliser at half strength. Pause feeding in autumn and winter.

Repot every 1–2 years, or when roots circle the pot or push through the drainage holes. Go up just one pot size — too large a pot holds excess moisture and invites rot. Spring is the best time to repot, refresh the compost and inspect the root system.

Propagation

Philodendrons are wonderfully easy to propagate from stem cuttings.

1. Identify a healthy stem and locate a node — the small bump where a leaf meets the stem, often with a tiny aerial root.
2. Cut just below the node with clean, sharp scissors. Each cutting should have at least one leaf and one node.
3. Place the cutting in a jar of water, keeping leaves above the surface, or pot directly into damp compost.
4. Set somewhere warm with bright, indirect light. Refresh water weekly.
5. Roots typically appear within 2–4 weeks. Pot up water-rooted cuttings once roots are a few centimetres long.

Pests and common problems

Philodendrons are not especially pest-prone, but watch for spider mites (fine webbing, stippled leaves), mealybugs (white cottony tufts in leaf joints) and the occasional thrips. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth, both to deter pests and to keep the foliage glossy.

• Yellow leaves: usually overwatering; occasionally a much older leaf simply ageing off.
• Brown crispy tips: dry air, underwatering or a build-up of mineral salts — flush the compost occasionally.
• Leggy growth: insufficient light; move closer to a window.

Telling philodendron apart from pothos

Heartleaf philodendron and golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) are constantly confused, since both have heart-shaped green leaves and trail happily. A few reliable clues:

• Leaf texture: philodendron leaves are thinner, softer and matt, with a more elongated heart shape and a pronounced point. Pothos leaves are thicker, waxier and slightly more asymmetrical.
• New growth: philodendrons produce new leaves from a papery sheath called a cataphyll, which dries and falls off. Pothos new leaves simply unfurl from the previous one with no sheath.
• Aerial roots: philodendrons typically have one slender aerial root per node, while pothos produce stubbier, often multiple nubs.
• Petiole: the philodendron leaf stem is round and smooth; pothos petioles have a small groove or indentation along the top.

Final thoughts

Give a philodendron decent light, water it when the top of the compost dries and a chunky mix to root into, and it will reward you for years. They're generous with cuttings, quick to bounce back from neglect, and offer a variety in leaf shape and colour that can fuel a lifelong collection from a single, easy-going genus.